8millennium wines in Rome
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- By Manuele Petri
"The wines of Georgia in Rome", an event by Riserva Grande, gave us the opportunity to reflect on the great interest surrounding Georgian viticulture.
Vellino is a small organic winery that produces 12,000 bottles a year in the small village of Kakabeti, was born from the passion of Beka Jimsheladze, a young 28-year-old producer who in 2015 decided to abandon his job in finance to devote himself to wine production. activity that has always been carried out by his family. Among his wines we recommend 3 whites: Mtsvane 2018, Mtsvane & Rkatsiteli 2017 and Rkatsiteli 2018(100% Rkatsiteli - maceration in amphora for 6 months - 13%). The latter in particular is characterized by a beautiful golden yellow color with amber reflections and a clean nose that offers hints of broom, dried fruit, and raisins on a delicately balsamic background. In the mouth, the great structure and the vibrant tannins (impossible not to judge it in Georgian white wines) are well balanced by the great acidity that lightens the sip. Pleasant savory finish in which the balsamic notes return to give an almond finish.
Brothers Khutsishvili is a 2-hectare company founded in 2015 by the Khutsishvili brothers, heirs of a family with 2 centuries of history in viticulture. The winery is located in the village of Kishekhevi, 35 km further north of the Vellino winery. The annual production is about 8 thousand bottles. Worthy of note is their commitment to the recovery of a vine that risked disappearing: the Kisi they proposed in the 2017 vintage (100% Kisi - 12.5%). But we preferred their Rkatsiteli 2018(100% Rkatsiteli - 6 months of maceration in amphora plus 6 months of aging in steel - 13.5%) which is golden yellow. On the nose, a pleasant oxidative note is combined with flavors of quince, aromatic herbs, honey, dried fruit, and dehydrated fruit. The sip is taut thanks to the important fresh-savory shoulder. Also in this case the long maceration gives the wine a perceptible tannin and a typically bitter finish.
8Millennuim is a winery owned by Irakli Svanidze but is also a Georgian wine importer company based in the Netherlands. To report their Rkatsiteli proposed in 2 years: 2017 and 2018. We preferred the 2018 (100% Rkatsiteli - 6/7 months in amphora without decanting - 13%). Golden yellow tending to amber. Whispered nose that combines floral notes with hints of medicinal herbs and almond. The sip is slender and endowed with great citrine freshness. A delicate softness brings balance together with the drying tannin. Very long persistence given by the pleasant flavor but above all by the closure in which the almond returns.
Even the Saperavi has been proposed in the same two seasons with 2017 in this case has had the upper hand, making it the best red wine of the evening (100% Saperavi - 6/7 months in amphorae without racking, subsequent separation from the lees and then other 12/14 months in amphora - 13.5%). Color between purple and concentrated ruby. Pleasant nose that combines many spices such as black pepper and clove with berries. Then undergrowth and dried flowers. Consistent in the mouth that despite the great freshness shows good balance thanks to a lively but more integrated tannin than the other Saperavi tasting. Very pleasant the fruity finish in which the spices return.
Abdushelishvili is located in Mtskheta right at the confluence of the Kura and Aragvi rivers. It is the capital of the Mtskheta-Mtianeti region, located about 20 kilometers north of Tbilisi. Produced by them the best wine of the evening, namely the Rkatsiteli 2019 (100% Rkatsiteli - 10 months of aging in amphora - 14.5%). Wonderful color between gold and amber. A wide and elegant nose that offers intriguing notes of date and honey combined with memories of hazelnut, almond, sultanas, and aromatic herbs. Warm sip with an important structure that finds balance in its great acidity. A savory wine with a very long persistence that closes consistently on almond notes.
Napheri is located a little further north along the Aragvi River, in the village of Naoza. The winery can only count on one hectare of vineyard and is owned by Levan Kbiltsetskhlashvili. We Vinomadi liked their Saperavi 2019 (100% Saperavi - 13.5%). Concentrated purplish red. Memories of black cherry in alcohol are combined with balsamic puffs and vegetal notes. The warm sip reveals a pleasant contrast between the fruity softness and the great freshness. The lashing tannin introduces a tasty and long finish in which the black cherry returns.
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